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060 Notion RITA ORA NEW SENSATION AGI & SAM FAM IRVOLL GORDON RICHARDSON TERRY DE HAVILLAND PERFUME GENIUS AMANDA MAIR / UNRUINED A SWEDISH FAIRYTALE BRATT MEANS BUSINESS HOLLY FULTON KRIS VAN ASSCHE MICHAEL VAN DER HAM LOVEBOX: LONDON LOVE GWILYM GOLD POLICA CLARK COLD SPECKS S H E S N O T WA I T I N G A N Y A Daimler Brand The new M-Class. Big on power, small on fuel. Seldom do words like 4x4 and fuel efficiency appear together. However, with our new 4-cylinder diesel engine, the ML 250 BlueTEC Sport is every bit as powerful as its predecessor, but 38 more fuel-efficient. In fact, delivering 44.8 mpg m (7.2-6.3), extra urban: 42.2- 50.4 (6.7- 5.6), combined: 39.2 - 44.8 (8.2-7.3). CO2 Emissions: 194-165 g/km. Model shown is a Fund Licence, number plates, new vehicle registration fee and fuel). Prices correct at time of going to print. 57 CONTENTS 50 FASHION BACKEND 050 / RITA ORA / 070 / GORDON INTERVIEWS NEW SENSATION RICHARDSON / THE SHOPKEEPER After three years of popstar bootcamp in L A learning at the A retrospective of the man who feet of superstars, R ITA OR As 62 COVER changed menswear on the high street 112 57 MASTHEAD EDITORS LETTER There are magazines like scrapbooks, filled with wants, and magazines like ALIX BLANKSON diaries, filled with hopes. I like to think of us as another kind of magazine, EDITORIAL INTERN a group journal documenting our work, inspiration and loves - challenged and SITUATED CE Dialogues Some brief accounts of our recent encounters with artists and other interesting people of note. The thing about van Assche is that he takes your questions, thinks carefully about them and responds is a measured, compelling tone. Hes not one for flippant comments, and though he clearly take Weaving a delicate, smooth tapestry from reels of nineties rnb, hip hop and slick pop grooves, Gayngs alumni Ryan Olson and Channy Leanaghs latest project Poliça only found its footing a year ago a time frame that doesnt quite prepare you for the sonic maturity found within their recently released Dialogues Some brief accounts of our recent encounters with artists and other interesting people of note. developed a signature collage technique of mixing apparently discordant fabrics and patterns into a striking look. It drew a huge amount of attention at the time, and remains the central idea ar FRONT OF BOOK A SELECTION OF IDEAS, IMAGES, INDIVIDUALS AND ITEMS WE HAVE RECENTLY THOUGHT INTERESTING, NOTEWORTHY, OR APPEALING, OFFERED UP FOR YOU APPRECIATION. WORDS: Michael C Lewin (MCL) / Seb Law (SL) / Helen Turnbull (HT) / Bronya Francis (BF) / Danielle Webber (DW) / Ailie Robertson (AR) / A P(IERRE)DOHERTY WWW.THEKOOPLES.CO.UK Notorious Brit-rocker meets effortlessly-cool Parisian chic: say whut!? On the surface, an unlikely partnering, but hear us out. The Kooples sublimely chic tailors have called upon bygone Brit sub-cults, namely all things 60s rebel, to give us fifteen impeccably FOB AVOID THE AUDIO HUNGER GAMES WWW.HP.COM Heres the situ: big room, multiple people, multiple music sources, multiple tastes, one stereo system. This scenario, given enough time, is likely to escalate. Wires everywhere. Frustrations, first innocuous, become overbearing. Someone trips. Tempers flar AQUA MARINA WWW.PETERPILOTTO.COM Anyone else used to watch Gerry Andersons Stingray as a kid? With the marionette submariners who saved the world, and Marina the mermaid? Well thats what Peter Pilottos SS12 collection reminded us of. Combining the splashy aqua- tinted printwork of Peter himself and FOB SUPERDRY, SUPER-SIZED WWW.SUPERDRY.COM Haim Forever EP The Haim sisters are a new three-piece from LA, with only this recently released Forever EP to their name. Opening track Better Off is deceiving in that its all twee hand claps, neat guitar riffs and delicate harmonies but it maintains a d UNIGLO WWW.UNIQLO.COM/UK UNIQLOs brilliance for simple, well- cut basics is one of fashions worst-guarded secrets. Now though, the lovely Japanese folks have decided to showcase their splashy, vivacious side with a whole range of pastel pinks, precious blues and subtle greys which make for a delicio FOB Original Penguin Stone Island 024 / Notion 000 planetnotion Luke Levis Street Life PHOTOGRAPHER / Robbie Peachey STYLIST / Alexis Knox STYLING ASSISTANTS / Sharaye Thomas & Ailie Robertson HAIR & MAKE UP / Debbie Gallagher using MAC MODEL/ James Sapphires Forget the Olympics. this summer, were revelling in that most British of traditions: shopping on the Gr FOB ABOUT ME: STUMBLEINE WWW.STUMBLEINE.BANDCAMP.COM Stumbleine is a British producer. Listening to his understated artists like Boards of Canada and Burial. Watching Radiohead glitchtronica riles an emotional reaction so intense that you develop has been a huge influence on me they produce such ca WHO:STEVEN LEIGH SMITH WWW.PERFECTMIDNIGHTWORLD.TUMBLR.COM WHAT: PerfectMidnightWorld is a music focused Tumblr blog that aims to shine a light on the great and often under-represented artists that might not get the push elsewhere. The focus tends to lean toward the dream pop, shoegaze and psych pop FOB ODE TO A MUSICAL MOTIF #3 THE PERFECT FEMALE POP VOCAL SEB LAW stretches the boundaries of his own column to crowbar in a listening session of nineties pop classics and classify it as work-related research The perfect pop vocalist Madonna, and sadly and subjective scales: Dreamlover). Beyoncés p As we compiled this issue, we found out that the digital music SXSW has happened. We werent there but we hear that Fiona Apple business is still growing quite a lot, and that girls are doing caused quite a stir exclusively playing some brand spanking new things. Read more about our discoveries in ou FOB DONT LOOK BACK Bronya Francis waxes fanatical on the golden age of rock journalism, and speaks to Pat Long, ex-NME staffer, current Digital Development Editor at The Times and author of The History Of The NME Having obsessions and passions is an important thing for people. My personal passion is COLD SPECKS Al Spx, AKA Cold Specks is a Canadian musician who now lives in The Big Smoke. Shes releasing her first record, I Predict A Graceful Impulsion, through the prestigious Mute Records on 21st May. We recycled a selection of the lyrics from her beautiful debut release to find out more about LUCKY ENTERING COMPETITIONS BY TEXT We will not charge you to enter any of our competitions, just text the keyword to the number stated. Your standard network rate for sending a text message applies. BY EMAIL competitionsatticlondon.com stating the issue number (eg 40) of the magazine where you saw 2012... its wildlife! 10 Fantastic fields 20 stages of live music, DJs + performance including: Arcadias Mechanical Cabaret The Swamp Shack Roller Disco Ambient Forest... Plus Fireworks Extravaganza Freaks + Sideshows Luxury camping and much more... ............................................ Death Waltz NOTION FEATURES WORDS: Tim Dellow Zombified! Tim Dellow reports on how Death Waltz Records are reviving lost classic soundtracks. Fetishism and Nostalgia. A powerful combination in certain parts of society. For example art collectors, film geeks and vinyl junkies. Combining the three int EXCLUSIVE ARTWORK FROM DEATH WALTZ ZOMBI 2 RELEASE BY GRAHAM HUMPHREYS; grahamhumphreys.com NOTION FEATURES Soundtracks from Beyond the Grave! Spencers Top Five All Time Soundtracks (at least, if you ask him today) W hat do you get if you combine cult cinema, impossible to get hold of music, limited edition physical formats and legendary artists creating exclusive work. For one thing, you Death Waltz Weirdly one of my first girlfriends just facebooked me saying, I remember you making me watch that in the Summer holidays... and I FUCKING LOVE THAT SOUNDTRACK. Moon 2009 DIR / Duncan Jones STARRING / Sam Rockwell, Kevin Spacey MUSIC / Clint Mansell Clint Mansell is one of the best worki GWILYM GOLD NOTION FEATURES WORDS: Lauren Down PHOTOGRAPHY: Rajan Wadhera PICTURE EDITOR: Becki Bull Gold Dust Not content with the overly prescriptive nature of musical formats already available to him, Gwilym Gold invented an entirely new way of experiencing his sonic creations in Bronze. With his GWILYM GOLD NOTION FEATURES Newly rejuvenated in each incarnation Acknowledging the lineage of his creations concerns and the outcome, the actual sound everything remains as vivid and vibrant as the Gwilym says he researched figures like John was secondary to the idea. I think in that day you first NOTION FEATURES AMANDA MAIR WORDS: Michael Cragg PHOTOGRAPHY: Damien Fry STYLING: Rachael Rodgers GROOMING: Bella Simonson ALL CLOTHES: Holly Fulton Unruined The sharp-cheekboned, utilitarian-clad workers of the pristine minimalist superpop factory at the exact geographical centre of Sweden (a thing 044 Notion 045 Notion AMANDA MAIR NOTION FEATURES wanted to know what people thought of her ever it was sort of look what Ive found so I thing, but with her it was so different because since she took part in a school talent show thought they were brand new recordings but it seemed so sincere, so honest and heartfelt. at NOTION FEATURES AMANDA MAIR Labrador roster and hand-picked by Angergård parties by Swedens number one celebrity and Mair), the crux of a great song is all party organiser. Basically, it was a big about the delivery and the ownership of the deal. When Angergård showed her the invite HOLLY FULTON son RITA ORA S H E S N O T WA I T I N G A N Y L O N G E R A N D N E I T H E R A R E W E : R I P T O T H E G I R L S H E U S E D T O B E . R I T A H A S F I N A L L Y A R R I V E D After three years of popstar bootcamp in LA learning at the feet of superstars, RITA ORAs here at last. We meet up with Jay Rita Ora NOTION FEATURES R ita Ora and I are sitting in and put Rita through school, including day dot. While the jurys out on the big Obligatory Posh Hotel. It is Sylvia Young Theatre School. An obvious guy, lets assume the obvious: Rita has lunch time. While we are having talent, Ritas first real JEWLLERY / Artists own BUSTIER / Aqua SHORTS / Superdry JEWELLERY / Artists own Rita Ora NOTION FEATURES moments that Ritas life is strewn with: of course. To be around such big stars and industry dont often fail. In Mark We played him the songs to heat up the respected businessmen you learn patience, Kermodes memoirs, he launches a jolly project, just so hes aware of it when 060 Notion Rita Ora NOTION FEATURES tell you how many songs Ive recorded, I London, down to the feature-endorsement of You may wonder how, in fact, anyone could literally cant count! But I cant sing Tinie: I didnt want to be signed to a US shine amongst all that. I like her response something that I dont feel JACKET / Gestuz BLOUSE / PPQ DRESS / Ada SHORTS / PPQ Zanditon NECKLACE / Bol$hie JEWELLERY / Artists own JACKET / Bol$hie 060 Notion PERFUME GENIUS NOTION FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER: James Anastasi STYLISTS: Seb Law & Alexis Knox ALL CLOTHES: Kris Van Assche PERFUME GENIUS INTERVIEW: Bronya Francis Metamophosis: the Magic Within the Music An interviewed accompanied by a photo story with Mr Mike Hadreas in the clothes of Mr Kris van Ass early 60s (even if it is in relation to a more That, compared to the artwork of this just be hugging people afterwards. He particular kind, the social deviant); and not to new album, two men with their faces only giggles, pauses, and continues. ome people forget Camus LEtranger. But fortunately not 064 Notion People have told me they listen to my music before they go to bed, and thats a good thing because it means that its comforting. 065 Notion If my music can make people feel better in their own skin, even for only a couple of minutes, Ill be happy. 066 Notion 067 Notion Im into the glamorous grandma look right now, and mixing it up with trashy stuff. 068 Notion HAIR: David Wadlow using Bumble & Bumble FASHION ASSISTANT: Ailie Robertson PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: Alex Oates THANKS TO: The Car Hospital, Hackney 069 Notion TOPMAN DESIGN / GORDON RICHARDSON NOTION FASHION The Shopkeeper PHOTOGRAPHY Hayley Louisa Brown STYLING Rachael Rodgers PICTURE EDITOR Becki Bull GROOMING Michelle Webb using Bobbi Brown GROOMING ASSISTANT Bianca Pereira WORDS John-Michael OSullivan ALL CLOTHING Topman Design EXCEPT: Grey Chu TOPMAN DESIGN NOTION FASHION Gordon Richardson INTERVIEW John-Michael OSullivan M y first memory of Topman stretches design credibility; an unapologetically key associates; and to the young in-house back to London in the early youth-driven retailer with a broad cross- designers who provide the bran TOPMAN DESIGN / GORDON RICHARDSON NOTION FASHION ready-to-wear label Daniel Hechter - now a Richardson is guardedly positive about the an urban wardrobe; and the rich, bohemian relatively anonymous name, but at the time one initiative; clearly delighted with the sensuality of Topman Designs ambitiou TOPMAN DESIGN / GORDON RICHARDSON NOTION FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER Elliott Morgan STYLING Alexis Knox HAIR & MAKE UP Katherine Gould using Chanel S 2012 and Hydra Beauty Serum and Bumble & Bumble STYLING ASSISTANT Ailie Robertson MODELS Jatinder Singh Durhailay (www.durhailay.com) & Nick Storm ALL Mz Bratt NOTION FEATURES PHOTOS: Jarek Kotomski STYLING AND WORDS: Aaron Francis Walker HAIR: Marcia Lee Phamous Artists using Bumble and Bumble MAKEUP: Claudine Henderson Balcony Jump using MAC MANICURE: Sophie Harris-Greenslade The Illustrated Nail using Swarovski & Essie FASHION ASSISTANT: Far TROUSERS / Mother of pearl T SHIRT SHIRT / Nike / Vivienne Westwood EARRINGS / Snap Dragon SHOES / Dr Martens Mz Bratt NOTION FEATURES aaronfwalker Yo when youve needed that thick skin in this help. I guess musically i want to connect with BrattOnline Hey male dominated industry (Ill edit this answer people & help them so thats where the message aaronfwalker this is funny. Er... back up to the top) based so TROUSERS JACKET SHIRT TIE / Martine Rose / Matthew Miller / Paul Smith / Duchamp EARRINGS SHOES / Stylists own / Dr. Martens (Opposite Page) SUIT / Agi and Sam TOP / Nike EARRINGS / Holly Fulton BRACELET / Michael van der Ham 083 Notion 060 Notion TROUSERS / Alexander McQueen JACKET SHIRT / Tim Soar / Martine Rose EARRINGS / Holly Fulton SHOES / Dr. Martens TOP / Kim West SKIRT / Soojin Lee (Opposite Page) DRESS / Tata Naka SHOES / Camilla RING / Imogen Skovgaard Belfield MAGNOLIA PHOTOGRAPHER J C Gray STYLIST Natalie Hubbard HAIR Jan Przemyk nakedartists.com using Shu Uemura Art of Hair MAKE UP Jaimee Thomas Frank Agency using Shu Uemura MODEL Michon Next DRESS / Basso NECKLACE / Maria and Brooke Francesca Pepe (Opposite Page) DRESS / Faster by Mark Fast SHOES / Crisian & McCaf frey RING / Imogen 060 Notion Belfield DRESS / Michael SHOES / Joanne van der Ham Stoker (Opposite Page) TOP / Holly Fulton NECKLACE / Holly SKIRT / Fam Fulton Irvoll 090 Notion TOP / Mother of Pearl TROUSERS / Mother of Pearl SHOES / Pringle of Scotland (Opposite Page) TOP / Jonathan 093 Notion Saunders PHOTOGRAPHER Gabriel Love STYLING Alexis Knox HAIR Aaron Carlo Headmasters using LOreal MAKE-UP Adam Burrell using MAC MODELS Kelly D1 & Mickey D1 STYLING ASSISTANT Ailie Robertson Inspired by the original Artwork of Chris Bracey; shot at The New Curiosity Shop exhibition curated by Daniel BODY / Alpinestars DRESS / Bitching SKIRT / Meat CAP / Alpinestars Clothing GLOVES & JEWELLERY / Stylists MICKEY SHORTS / Kokon To Zai GLOVES / Alpinestars CAP / Bol$hie and Junkfood BACKPACK & JEWELLERY/ Stylists own TOP / Rachael BOXERS / Rachael Rodgers own Rodgers TROUSERS / Adidas GLOVES / Alpi NOTION FASHION ZOMG! Putting the super into heroine-chic, and inspired by the fantastic creations of shoe designer extraordianire, Mr. Terry de Havilland PHOTOGRAPHER Elliott Morgan STYLIST Alexis Knox 096 Notion ILLUSTRATOR Philip Grisewood MAKE-UP Debbie Gallagher using Mac HAIR Aaron Carlo at Headmasters using LOréal and Hair Rehab London MODEL Olga at Next FASHION ASSISTANT Danielle Webber PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT Kevin Chesnais ALL SHOES / Terry De Havilland ORANGE MICKEY DRESS / Meat Clothing BLAA The Real Zoolander NOTION FEATURES The Secret Male Model The third installment of our mystery mans hilarious accounts of coming to terms with being just a pretty face takes us to the circus of fashion week... Half naked women; hired models, clamber all over the cage, watch us as we walk. Part of the against my cheek and some undistinguishable if Im gay. Tom ushers me into the taxi and squeezes my shoulders and have pair of rabble is belted into my ear. Even though I when I get out were not at the hotel at all headphones round my neck. Surrounding the have no idea who this assailant is, or what NOTION +LOVEBOX London Love A selection of our favourite new creatives living and working in the love of our lives, London, to celebrate our partnership with the citys best music festival, Lovebox. W e love the city: this big, and out & out fierce with the same relish the rest of the world; and the london love NOTION +LOVEBOX PHOTOGRAPHER / Elliott Morgan STYLING / Alexis Knox HAIR & MAKE UP / Katherine Gould using Chanel S 2012, Hydra Beauty Serum and Bumble & Bumble STYLING ASSISTANT / Ailie Robertson MODEL / Reece D1 ALL LOOKS Agi & Sam INTERVIEW / Ailie Robertson Agi & Sam Design duo Agi london love NOTION +LOVEBOX PHOTOGRAPHER / Elliott Morgan STYLING / Alexis Knox HAIR & MAKE UP / Katherine Gould using Chanel S 2012 and Hydra Beauty Serum and Bumble & Bumble STYLING ASSISTANT / Ailie Robertson ALL LOOKS Fam Irvoll SHOES / Models own INTERVIEW / Alix Blankson Fam Irvoll As February london love NOTION +LOVEBOX PORTRAIT / Kim Jakobsen To INTERVIEW / Alix Blankson Grande Dame Londons illustration community is a tight-knit web of talented creatives who lead the way in the global illustratorsphere (if indeed there is such a thing). But when we encountered the work of Tiff McGinnis london love NOTION +LOVEBOX INTERVIEW / Alix Blankson Hattie Stewart The contemporary illustrator is lucky to be working right now: never has our appetite for original imagery been so great, nor are we so excited by it. Not only will your work be tumbld and pinned widely online, our hunger is sated BACK/EN D Welcom e to o ur Bac As eve k-End! r, you (Ahem. ll fi ) nd bri collec lliant tion o writin f inte g on a restin ideas, g peop along le, pl with o aces a ur che the re nd rry-pi cords cked s and fi electi lms of series on of note o of sug f the gestio moment ns for and a how to big ni wise b/e interview Clark Compact Warp Records Chris Clark is happy to spend years working hard, glitchy beats that fans expect from him on a tune but play him some Baroque music and he wont be impressed. Words: Kara Simsek playing more techno stuff recently, but this album and his label mates a 114 Notion b/e interview Meeting Terry De Havilland Adored in the shoe world, somewhat ignored elsewhere: the story of Terry de Havilland is a long, strange trip. SEB LAW tags along for a ride on the rollercoaster career of a great British craftsman Whats enduring about Terry though, is that hes remained down 116 Notion scenes: - PNLFW - Words: Seb Law Photography: Kaye Ford & Kevin Chesnais There was a subtle change in the air this season at Somerset House, noticeable from the moment you stepped through the Neoclassical arches into Fashion Narnia. It might have been the knowledge that both McQ and Stella McCartney The Panton Chair 118 Notion scenes: - Design That Kicks the Hornets Nest - Words: Warren Beckett Photography: Warren Beckett More and more, you see people falling for Scandinavians. Its not just their flawless bone structure, nor their impeccable pop, or even their beautiful utilitarian clothing: beneath it all is a sense of i 120 Notion scenes: - Beginners Guide To DJing - Words: Marcus Barnes PHOTOGRAPHY: Sebastian Matthes WWW.THEWAREHOUSEPROJECT.COM Our man Marcus Barnes risks the wrath of the heads by enrolling in DJ school and learning to play on CDJs so you dont have to. many in the world of DJing but soon many of level cours TEST DRIVING BLF Bronya Francis BM Ben Magill CC Charlie Clarkson LMB Luke Morgan Britton MCL Michael Lewin SL Seb Law ITS ALMOST SUMMER. HEY, WERE ALREADY WEARING CUT-OFF SHORTS, TANK TOPS, SUNGLASSES AND PASTELS. SO SUE US. WERE PREPPING OURSELVES FOR FESTIVAL PARTY TIMES WITH A BALANCED COC Best Coast THE ONLY PLACE WICHITA/SURF A stars-and-stripes collagen plumps the bikini-clad body of Best Coasts music It does however share a heavy reliance on the whole defenceless female like a botoxed slab of Blackpool rock. Such lo-fi stupidity fills 32 vacuous aesthete. And although Cosentino mo GOOD SHIT / BAD SHIT UNDERWEAR. WE ALL WEAR IT (MORE OR LESS). IT CAN BE PRACTICAL, PLAYFUL, COLOURFUL, MONOCHROME, SEE-THROUGH, OPAQUE, OR JUST PLAIN DREARY. LIKE WHEN WHITE PANTS TURN THAT OFF-GREY COLOUR... ICH. WE LISTENED TO A FEW SELECT FULL-LENGTH RELEASES AND THOUGHT IT WOULD BE A BRA-LLIANT THE SOUND-ROBIN searching that it lead to the band almost deciding it wasnt worth being a band any Improvised music is brilliant because it calls upon two things I love that musicians focus on playing it. Imposing the very loosest of structures on each piece, they left rarely get to display simultan S W E AT B O X I N G CLUBS EDITOR KARA SIMSEK SO MUCH TO DO AND SO LITTLE TIME! IF ONLY YOU COULD CLONE YOURSELF AND DO IT ALL, EH? SADLY YOUR LIFE ISNT A SYFY MADE FOR TV MOVIE, ALTHOUGH YOU MUST ADMIT THAT HAVING A DOPPELGANGER THAT WAS MORE THAN HAPPY TO TAKE THE STRAIN OF AN OVERACTIVE SOCIAL LI Dour Festival Belgium Planet Mu Night XOYO, Shoreditch 12-15 JULY 11 MAY You shouldnt need too much convincing to check this out Belgiums naturally flat geography makes it a great place for a after all Planet Mu Night basically translates as a guaranteed festival. No hills to test your enduranc FILM EDITOR / MATT HARVEY PROFOUNDLY MOVING PRESENTS THE Greetings Real Dealers!!! Everybody in the House of Love. Everybody in the House of Love. One Love. One God. Everybody in the House of Love. I say House of Love, I really mean.... House of Film Reviews! Like these ones... John Carter DVD & BLU Ill Manors Silent House She Monkeys CINEMA / REVOLVER ENTERTAINMENT / 4TH MAY / CINEMA / STUDIOCANAL / RELEASED 4TH MAY CINEMA / PECADILLO / 18TH MAY / REVIEW BY MICHAEL C LEWIN REVIEW BY JON BARTHOLEMEW Telling interconnected stories about a Silent House is a horror film where a group Let play a ga painted truths End Paper Nothing will work unless you do Maya Angelou Painted Truths #7: VV Brown by Margot Bowman; on the pop stars inspirational new business venture Photography: Sarah Brimley Subject: VV Brown Margot Bowman 2012 I think all things can be done if they are meant to exist. The univ