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51 CONTENTS FASHION REGULARS 056 / PATRICK WOLF X JAMES LONG HOW LOVE TAMED THE WOLF MENSWEAR FOCUS TRENDS/SHOOTS 064 / URBAN SPORTS 070 / QUIRKY 034 / COMPETITIONS I was always terrified of reality 82 FEATURES TAILORING 074 / BUFFALO BOY KODE9 & SPACEAPE / PANDA BEAR when I was younger. I didnt want anything to do with the world, because I hated the world, and I hated reality. 080 / STILL LIFE: SCENTS / NASAL APPRAISAL 082 / NEW FACES / ACCESSORIES & GROOMING breakthrough with his best album yet: and he claims its all down to being happy. 56 048 / YASMIN / NOSTALGIA ON WAX Theres a groundswell of hot, bright young things rewriting music and theyre looking to the 42 90s to do it. Meet the desirable DIALOGUES 016 / FOE 017 / LEE EDWARDS 018 / EXAMPLE face of the new pop. FRONT OF BOOK The remarkable singer, composer 017 / FASHION: LOADS OF IT 018 / COMPLEMENTARY worst-kept secret. He finally 020 / POLITICSSLASHMUSIC: been worth the wait. REVOLUTIONARY ROCK 016 / NOTES FROM NOWHERE / SETH TROXLER 021 / ITEMS & THINGS: MAGDA / 036 / GAZELLE TWIN MEN LIKE GODS A collaboration drawing on the shrouded figure at a pagan 24 festival in Sardinia MARC HOULE 022 / EAT YOUR HEART OUT: A round-up of the many amazing albums around, and some less amazing ones: cutting the #killahs from the #nillas 094 / SWEATBOXING / CLUBS URBAN NERDS / EASTERN ELECTRICS / BANGFACE WEEKENDER / FRANKIE KNUCKLES / STREET FEST 2011 096 / THE REEL DEAL / FILM JOE DUNTHORNE INTERVIEW / I SAW THE DEVIL / I SPIT ON YOUR GRAVE / RULE BRITANNIA 098 / END PAPER / MARGOT BOWMAN IM THE CLOSEST THING I HAVE TO A VOICE OF REASON THEATRICAL GASRONOMY 024 / SUMMER KICKS: FANTASTIC 4 026 / COMPLEMENTARY LISTENING: AZARI & III 027 / CERAMIC VANDALISM: OLD ART INTO NEW 040 / LOW / NOTHING BUT HEART 028 / THE GREEN WORKSHOP: The slow-core trio still POPSESSION: EUROVISION proving you dont need to shout 17 093 / GOODSHIT/ BADSHIT LISTENING: SKELETONS delivers his first EP, and its 17 042 / MARQUES TOLIVER BY MY BUTTERFLY and violinist is musics 48 / SMITH WESTERNS / SEBASTIAN / GUS GUS / DIE DIE DIE A MAN FOR ALL SENSES The alt.star on the verge of 74 090 / TEST DRIVING / ALBUMS Cover Photographed By JAMES MORIARTY 64 030 / JETSETTING WITH loud to be heard BELLERUCHE BRIXTON VIOLETS 029 / ADVENTURES IN 031 / 15 THINGS: HOSPITAL RECORDS 032 / NOTION 50th PARTY 30 009 notionmag.com PATRICK WOLF X JAMES LONG MENSWEAR FOCUS NEW TRENDS: URBAN SPOR TS INDUSTRIAL BUFFALO OUTRE TAILORING YASMIN NOSTALGIA ON WAX: THE DESIRABLE FACE OF NEW POP MARQUES TOLIVER BE MY BUTTERFLY: THIS MAN IS A GENIUS. BELIEVE PLUS EXAMPLE GAZELLE TWIN LOW AZARI & III HOW L O V E TAMED PATRICK WOLF T H E S FABRE BL-S in original colours, unfold the stories at onitsukatiger.com 51 CONTENTS FASHION REGULARS 056 / PATRICK WOLF X JAMES LONG HOW LOVE TAMED THE WOLF MENSWEAR FOCUS TRENDS/SHOOTS 064 / URBAN SPORTS 070 / QUIRKY 034 / COMPETITIONS I was always terrified of reality 82 FEATURES TAILORING 074 / BUFFALO BOY KODE9 & SPACEAPE / PANDA BEAR when I was younger. I didnt wan 51 MASTHEAD EDITORS LETTER This is our 51st issue. It year. It was a delight: an the magazine, it is just means Notion is entering afternoon spent outside in that: go make something, a new half-century, and we the sun, making something for the hell of it. Leave think it should represent a with peop Dialogues Some brief accounts of our recent encounters with artists and other interesting people of note. Field Notes 1 . Fleet Railway Station was built for Queen Victoria, so she could travel easily to and from the town. She visited Fleet to go ice skating on the local pond in Winter. 2 . The artw LEE EDWARDS Loredana DAndrea meets the visual artist LEE EDWARDS, whose miniature works are big with beauty. room. In terms of installation its quite a quiet piece and its away from prying eyes. If you come across it, its something a bit more special, so it plays with the idea of, I Was Too Shy in t Dialogues Being an international hip hop DJ lyricist superstar clearly carries quite a lot of weight Examples cars soundsystem was busted so he swapped vehicles with the PR girls, leaving them with the horrible fate of driving for two days with no music, just their own chatter. I finally got to spe FRONT OF BOOK A SELECTION OF IDEAS, IMAGES, INDIVIDUALS AND ITEMS WE HAVE RECENTLY THOUGHT INTERESTING, NOTEWORTHY, OR APPEALING, OFFERED UP FOR YOU APPRECIATION. WORDS: Seb Law (SL) / Aaron Francis Walker (AFW) / Kara Simsek (KS) / Michael C Lewin (MCL) / James Lachno (JL) / Rob Dabrowski (RD) / Ma COLLABULOUS WWW.LEVIS.COM Cult US brand Opening Ceremony is gradually migrating itself over to the UK. Without CLIMBING THE LADDER any standalone stores here, theyve collabd their way into Blighty, WWW.MANHATTANPORTAGE.CO working with the likes & WWW.STUSSY.COM of Pendleton, Repetto, YOUNG TURK WWW. FOB AGTS RAVE SOAP BOX For those who were lucky to get to this years Bloc Weekend, theyve already had the highlight of 2011 without even getting to the midway mark. While she was there, Kara Simsek asked AGT Rave Cru for their opinion on raving was it better in the good old days or do we just rever GET YOUR WAX STRAIGHT, SQUIRE FLICKIN FIERCE! WWW.FLIKHALL.COM Say what you like about these looks: spiky, angular, terrifying, the one word that sums up these garments is Fierce! Flik Hall is a London-based designer who creates the ultimate in intimidation-wear (along with a frightfully high-faluti FOB MINIMAL as they were all friends and a pleasure to work with. Houle says of it: Why would I want to release on another label when everything I want is here? TAXONOMY I would rather work with my friends to take music Magda and comrades Troy Pierce and Marc Houle for the weird, experimental and be FOB EAT YOUR HEART OUT A THEATRICAL BANQUET AT THE END OF THE WORLD / CONCEIVED BY KINDLE THEATRE MENU BY BLANCH & SHOCK WORDS: MICHAEL LEWIN IMAGES: AIDAN ONEILL POST-PRODUCTION: CLAIRE BISHOP In a long room a cavern, really, beneath London Bridge railtracks around 60 theatre-goers are seated in The story pans out across the dinner: several occasionally is during the hour or so show, this apocalypses have taken place, incorporating zombies, quickly gives way to a childish giggle either at plagues and asteroids. A queen (unseen), her maid the impressive details (the wonderfully gruesome (the FOB THE FANTASTIC FOUR: SUMMER KICKS Ive said this before, and Ill say it again: Boys, just because its summer again doesnt mean that you can resurrect last years scabby white plimsolls. Please do the decent thing and chuck em out, their PREP SCHOOL time has been and gone and now, people will merely www.supremebeing.com Mens & Womens Apparel, Footwear & Accessories Ranges In Store & Online Now BLUE IS THE COLOUR WWW.FATFACE.COM Indigo is believed to be the oldest dye in the world. Older than squid ink, older than that once made out of squashed beetles (cochineal), older than that stuff that your girlfriend uses to dye her, erm, eyebrows. Its also a bloody lovely colour too: a deep, rich b CERAMIC VANDALISM LOREDANA DANDREA ON THE ARTISTS TURNING OLD INTO NEW, WITH A DELICIOUS TWIST OF DESTRUCTION ON THE WAY. FOB BOUKE DE VRIES Stitched together ceramic rebellion, pieced together destruction, de Vries sculptures take advantage of the fragile. The destruction of the antiques used has n FOB BRIXTON VIOLETS: SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL FLORIST There was much to recommend about the way I spent my birthday. Outdoors on the first sunny day after a tense, pauce, long cold winter; on a rooftop in Bermondsey, with a view of all of London; all on a shoot in the company of a variety of wonderful, en FOB BET YOU NEVER THOUGHT YOUD SEE THIS HERE, DID YOU DO ANDROIDS DREAM OF ELECTRIC FEET? WWW.ALPINESTARS.COM I went to see Tron back in the arse end of last year, and yeah, what a ADVENTURES IN POPSESSION www.thechemistryisdead. turkey. With dialogue, plot and acting even more wooden than the woode FOB GOLHAR GOSH! WWW.AM-GOLHAR.COM Am Golhar is taking knitwear into a new, much more relaxed direction. Theres a definite movement in mens clothes towards a clean silhouette without extraneous adornment, and the clean cutting in Golhars garments fits in nicely with this. Recalling cult designers li 15 THINGS YOU NEVER KNEW ABOUT HOSPITAL RECORDS Drum n bass label Hospital Records turns 15 in April. Heres 15 things you never knew about the seminal dnb MULES ARE BACK! hub from label boss Tony Colman, who along with Chris Goss,m is better known as London Elektricity. 1. We set up Hospital in 1996 WERE GETTING ON Obvs we had to through some kind of party to celebrate. We decided to be modest: we took over Hoxton Square in trendy East London for a night of tunes, tantrums and torrents of booze. On the stage, we erected a giant birthday cake around the DJ speakers (awesomeness); we made bunting LUCKY BUGGERS SEE DEADMAU5 AT VICTORIA PARK ENTERING COMPETITIONS BY TEXT We will not charge you to enter any of our competitions, just text the keyword to the number stated. Your standard network rate for sending a text message applies. BY EMAIL competitionsmusichqmed stating the issue number (eg An honest dedication to high-quality manufacturing. Icon pieces for your wardrobe that will stay with you for a long time. Products to be worn and lived in. Brought to you with expert knowledge - www.14oz-berlin.com and a down-to-earth attitude. - A strong, profiled portfolio of up-and-coming & sign GAZELLE TWINS COSTUME: D e s i g n e d a n d m a d e b y G a z e l l e T w i n It is the inimitable act of self- defying empowerment that costume and mask wearing exclusively affords - a practice that nearly all cultures across the world, in the entire history of human life, have been aware of and h gazelle twin Men Like Gods Words Gazelle Twin / Photos Bernholz & Gazelle Twin / Art Direction Gazelle Twin GAZELLE TWINs haunting, captivating demos have had us in reverie for ages now: like watching someone elses escapist fantasies through a gauze, or a shroud, like Glasser in a clinch with Is Thi We dont realise at the time, but our deepest imagination conjures these unbearable scenarios in a bid to prepare us for a potential fight-or-flight; our Mamuthones are feral, down-trodden and tormented creatures with a sinister edge. They are like possessed, stray cattle with a human soul. village. two. one-two. one-two. It is the inimitable one-two. one-two. one- act of self-defying two-three. And again, empowerment that and so on, and so on. costume and mask Said to represent wearing exclusively the spiritual and affords - a practice physical reverse that nearly all of the Mamuthones, cultur Low Nothing But Heart Nearly two decades into their career, the Minnesotan trio are still making vital, intense music, still proving you dont have to shout loudest to be heard. Words: Matt Tomiak / Images: Sara Kiesling A ppropriately enough for a band even though we have a new President whos with h MARQUES TOLIVER Be My Butterfly The busking past and free spirit of the remarkable Marques Toliver singer, composer, violinist has led many to hold his talent dear, from Adele to Grizzly Bear, before hes even released a record. His debut EP, finally here, is so good itll finally do away with one o MARQUES TOLIVER huge repertoire, and youve settled on this melodies. Their tone, as I hope the metaphor composer, in a way. As a teaser, to get everyone particular four-track EP, Butterflies Are conveys, is rather melancholy. (If Im sad, excited for when the album does come out. Not Free. You didnt MARQUES TOLIVER / My spirits left the floor. Such intricate, or the magic or whatever leaves. I think Ill We talked of plenty more. The scope of intelligent arrangements, unobtrusively always be somewhat of a wandering minstrel, to his contemplation of his music is quite marrying vocal, lyric and pe TROUSERS Volcom YASMIN Nostalgia On Wax Katryn Duncan PHOTOGRAPHER James Moriarty ART DIRECTION Hidden Agency STYLIST Alexis Knox MAKE UP Thom Ticklemouse using MAC HAIR Carl Campbell using Shu Eumera FASHION ASSISTANT Joe Harley & YASMIN Shit is getting exciting for we new music addicts: the groundswell of bright, hot young things rewriting everything thats gone before is breaking and ready to overrun us. Yasmin is there at its head, the populist face, preparing to break the charts for the new generation. I s there something JACKET & JEANS Levis SHIRT Wrangler YASMIN I w o nd e r e d h avin g d on e that m uc h d j in g , d o The thing is... Im young, Im 22, but but Ive managed to pull it in, because I you th i n k it g ive s you a se n se of w hat w or ks to Im old-school. When I started DJing, know what I want so I can be very vocal. m an ipu late pe o YASMIN You recognise that what was important about that this this and this, you know? So I feel People dont want to hear Flo Rida, 90s stuff was that it was in its moment fresh. like I HAVE to make those decisions. Pitbull stuff any more. Theyre searching for something with a bit more mood. And Do TOP Katharine Hamnett ALL CLOTHES / JAMES LONG AW 11/12 PHOTOGRAPHY James Moriarty ART DIRECTION Hidden Agency STYLING Anthony Stephinson HAIR Noriko Takayama using Kiehls MAKE-UP Natsumi Narita using MAC How Love Tamed Patrick Wolf PATRICK WOLF has been many things in the decade hes been in our consciousness: an always outrageous alternative star shape-shifting from freak folkster to baroque popstrel and most things in between, delivering honest and histrionic ballads while dressed in a manner that PATRICK WOLF In other words, just because Patrick distributor called me one day and asked no longer propelled by being terrified Wolf is an invention, we shouldnt what section of HMV I wanted to be in; of it as he was when he was younger. mistake his sincerity. Although many rock and pop, classic, f PATRICK WOLF street tale whose clipped melody saunters about itself which comes from the stage - who probably doesnt even want to with summery gate and which, more confidence of the artist in himself. be at the show... they want to see somebody significantly, delivers lines like love else. I share t URBAN SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHER Mark Cant STYLIST Alexis Knox HAIR Josh Goodwin for Kevin Murphy MAKE-UP Debbie Gallagher using Mac MODEL Matthew Poile at Nevs FASHION ASSISTANTS Kathryn Duncan, Sandy Samra JACKET Horace T-SHIRT Hummel CHAIN Stylists own 065 Notion WATCH Toy Watch TROUSERS Beyo T-SHIRT Boy London GREY HOODY 1 Nike GREY HOODY 2 WORN ON TOP izzue SOCKS Stylists own SHORTS Umbro 066 Notion TOP Stone Island CHAIN Stylists own T-SHIRTS Soulja (London) TROUSERS Luke SHIRT Tween BAG Christopher Shannon for Eastpak TROUSERS Hummel SOCKS Stylists own TRAINERS Onitsuka Tiger WATCH Toy Watch 069 Notion QUIRKY TAILORING PHOTOGRAPHER Mark Cant STYLIST Alexis Knox HAIR Josh Goodwin for Kevin Murphy MAKE-UP Debbie Gallagher using Mac MODEL Jose at Nevs FASHION ASSISTANTS Kathryn Duncan, Sandy Samra SHIRT Qasimi JACKET Universal Work s SHORTS Volcom SOCKS Stylists Own BOOTS Dr Martens 070 No FULL LOOK STPL SHIRT Evisu VEST Orphans Arms TROUSERS Supreme Being 060 Notion CAP + SHIRT STPL JACKET Tween TROUSERS FLY53 SHIRT Alpha industries INC WAISTCOAT Volcom SHORTS NIKE SHOES Converse CAP Boy London NECKLACE Violet Darkling PHOTOGRAPHER Damian Fry STYLIST Alexis Knox HAIR Josh Goodwin using Kevin Murphy MAKEUP Debbie Gallagher using NARS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT Joe Hunt FASHION ASSISTANTS Kathryn Duncan, Sandy Samra 075 Notion JUMPSUIT Asher Levine JACKET Alpha Industries inc SCARF Soulja BOOTS Soulja SOCKS Stylists own HAT STPL SHIRT CUSTOMISED BY STYLIST Qasimi JUMPER Horace KILT AND BELT Skilt LEGGINGS stylist own BOOTS Palladium NECKLACE Icon GLOVES Alpine Stars SHIRT Alpha industries INC WAISTCOAT Volcom SHORTS NIKE SHOES Converse CAP Boy London NECKLACE Violet Darkling RING Blow PR JACKET Nickelson T-SHIRT Long x Boy TROUSERS Horace BOOTS Alpine Stars SHIRT ROUND WAIST Levis STILL LIFE MENS SCENT: NASAL APPRAISAL The composition of a complete masculine identity requires effort: to create the perfect impression, each and every sense must be considered and catered for to create the perfect whole. In laymans terms? Its no good looking like Tom Ford if you smell like the ex BULGARI - BLU POUR HOME Despite having top notes of ginger and cardamom, heart notes of juniper and tobacco and base notes of sandalwood, musk and cedar - all I can smell is play dough and locker rooms. Which is a wholly good thing. These broad strokes are due entirely to my being an anosmic philist A MAN FOR ALL SENSES ACCESSORIES & GROOMING Continuing our investigation into composing A Man For All Senses: a consideration of the most a la mode Accessories and Grooming products, using the most sparkling New Faces in modelling in a homage to some classic advertising campaigns. PHOTOGRAPHY Jarek Tomo channels the manly swag of James Dean, but lightens things up with our customised Chanel sunglasses. Cobalt scarf by Emily Miles. String Tee by Pringle. 084 Notion Kyle wears sun glasses by Calvin Klein. Vest by Alexander McQueen at Selfridges. Patent cuf f by Fleet Ilya. Paper watch from www.maidenshop.com If youre planning on going shirtless and youre ginger, be sure to wear a high factor sun cream. Henry wears Tote bag and belt by Fleet Ilya. Black and white necklce (used as bag charm) by KTZ. Spine necklace (used as bag charm) by Disaya. Keyrings www.maidenshop.com. High vis scarf by Emily Miles. 0 Henry wears blazer by Calvin Klein collection. Sunglasses by Fendi. Medal pin by KTZ. Royal Vampires badge from www.maidenshop.com Channel Kurt Cobain by wearing girly sunglasses and get topical with some Royal/Anti-Royal memoribilia. HES IN FASHION: Christopher Shannon A ROUNDUP OF MENSWEAR DAY AT LFW PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rishi Mullett-Sadones There are two lines of thought concerning Menswear Day: one goes that the day is a welcome fi nish to LFW; a celebration of a niche market and a neat way of showcasing Londons menswear talent t Quickfire Irreverent Reviews: MENSWEAR DAY ON A BRITPOP- RELATED MENSWEAR SCALE #MENSWEAR: Stardust = Awesome #SUEDE: Shes in Fashion = Good #BLUR: Country House = OK #CAST: Mother Nature Calls = Hmmm #OASIS: Heathen Chemistry = God No! BAARTMANS & SIEGEL: Mad Max strolls into a tailor, holds hi TEST DRIVING Amir Adhamy (AA) James Lachno (JL) Seb Law (SL) Yousif Nur (YN) Timothy Robins (TR) Kara Simsek (KS) SPRING IS SPRUNG, THE TREES ARE BLOOMING AND THE RECORD RELEASE SCHEDULES TOO ARE IN FULL BLOSSOM. THERES A VERITABLE FUCKING CORNUCOPIA OF DILLAS AND KILLAHS GETTING UP IN YOUR GRILL OV PANDA BEAR TOMBOY PAW TRACKS/PSYCHEDELIC For all the wild exaltation Early, and erroneous, whispers ground. Lead single Tomboy, Its not an exception that numbers, starting with the heaped on neo-psych savants of a chillwave godfather which emerged last July, proves the rule. Experimental sore-thumb Glasswerk presents by arrangement with Primary Talent International: UK TOUR MAY 2011 Tuesday, 3rd May - Pop Up Playgroup, (Ocean Rooms), Brighton Tickets: 01273 673 311 Friday, 6th May - Yardbird jazz club, Birmingham Tickets: 0121 212 2524 Saturday, 7th May - Thekla, Bristol Tickets: 0845 413 4444 GOOD SHIT / BAD SHIT THE ISSUE WE CUT TEST DRIVING SHORT BECAUSE THE ISSUE IS SO PACKED IS INEVITABLY THE PERIOD WHERE TONNES OF WORD-WORTHY RECORDS ARE RELEASED. DAMN YOU, GOD OF PAGINATION! SO HERES A ROUND-UP CUTTING THE KILLAHS FROM THE NILLAS. THE #ILLAH SCALE: #DILLA Donuts, baby. Equals: Awe S W E AT B O X I N G CLUBS EDITOR KARA SIMSEK OHMYGAWD THERE ARE SO MANY PUBLIC HOLIDAYS OVER THE NEXT TWO-MONTHS ITS LIKE LIVING ON THE CONTINENT. QUICK! GET SOME WINE! GET SOME JUICE! CHOP UP AN APPLE! MIX IT UP AND SWAP THAT WARM CAN OF K CIDER FOR A JUG OF ICE-COLD, BLOOD-RED SANGRIA. IF A SIP O THE PLAYGROUND 3RD BIRTHDAY XOYO, Shoreditch FRANKIE KNUCKLES 28 MAY XOYO, Shoreditch If youve been waiting for an excuse to go to one of The Playgrounds nights (yes, them that pack the line-up with top 23 APRIL flight electro DJs like sardines), then surely your reason has Um, Chicago house legend FILM EDITOR / MATT HARVEY PROFOUNDLY MOVING PRESENTS THE This months edition of the Real Deal spans the full gamut of human depravity. At one end of the scale (i.e. not depraved and, in fact, rather nice) is Joe Dunthorne, the author of Submarine. Then comes murder, sexual assault and penis removal. He would therefore have loved the bloodthirsty vengeance on display in I Saw the Devil, the extravagantly violent new movie from Korean director Kim Jee-woon (The Good the Bad and the Weird). It stars Choi Min-sik (Oldboy) as a viciously depraved serial killer with a penchant for sexually assaulting End Paper MARGOT BOWMAN Im The Closest Thing I Have To Voice Of Reason Gil Scott Heron The first in an exclusive series of collaborations with the brilliant artist Margot Bowman. Photography : Ariane Leblanc Model : Naomi Shimada Naomi Shimada on Im the closest thing I have to a voice of reason by G NOTIONMAG.COM Digital Delight! Notion Magazine Available In Print From Wh Smith, Mccolls, And All Good Independents Notion Magazine Is Now Available Digitally www.notionmag.com Subscribe Electronically Via Credit Card Or Sms www.planetnotion.com Complete Access To Our Entire Archive From Only 99P Pe ouch , ive life in t ow , in control. L in the kn erms. on a y y A ur m t tphone. life g Gal x o ce S ar Live Samsun 2011 Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd. Screen image simulated. Google and Android are trademarks of Google, Inc. Black and white covers included. sign. s, Stunning De droid App ity, 150,00